Kargil Jam & Grim Weather

Back from Kargil. They do have internet connection there but I was unable to find the time to sit down and blog. The ride from Leh was fine (7 hrs) although we had to sit and wait for a long time in the outskirts of Kargil, waiting for a bulldozer to shift a big pile of rocks across the road. Like last year Gulzar was an excellent host and had organized everything for me. On Wedensday I visited Kagril Social and Cultural Organization's (KASCO) new creche. The kids were lined up for me, applauding as I entered. It made me feel like a high ranking government official or something. Next I met with all the activists in KASCO's office, and they were tripping over each other replying to my questions. Kargil has a bad reputation but behind the drab streets there is a lot of activities going on, and it's a very hospitable community. In the afternoon we went to a poetry slam at the Cultural Academy. The most distingusihed poets in town delivered their latest lines. The Kargilis are really passionate about their poetry, and the audience participate loudly in the recital, exclaiming "Whoa!!!" (Perfect!) and calling the poet to repeat his lines. The greatest of them all is a charismatic Balti guy called Sadiq Ali. On the second day I had more fun. We started with a guitar jam at KASCO, and I got to exchange licks with Kargil's no 1 pop musician, Riyaz Munchi. Later in the day the people of Kargil staged a rowdy anti US and Israel demonstration, burning effigies of George Bush and Sharon. The bazaar was crammed full with demonstrators, jumping, shoving and screaming "Down with USA, down with Israel!". The most funadamentalist group of demonstrators carried a picture of an armed Mujahedin with a black bandana making him look like Rambo. In the evening I went for a formal dinner with Gulzar. It was the last Friday of Ramadan. I sat in a long line of men (the women were nowhere to be seen and got my own plate of food. It was meat, meat and more meat and I took my own time trying to eat all of it. Suddenly I realized that everyone else had finished their food and was looking at me. I quickly put my plate down so the Mullah could thank Allah for the food. The most of the guys got up and left. This morning we started driving back to Leh at six. As we approached Photu la there was quite a lot of snow. The traffic was backed up for three kilometres beneath the pass. It took us a couple of hours of ice hacking and pushing to get the car over the top. I was really happy that I had brought some good winter clothes (except for the shoes). The weather is pretty grim here in Leh too, and I hope my flight will not be cancelled. It remains to be seen. I have started to read Hanif Koureshi's (?) "The Black Album" but I'm not yet sure about what it's about.